Get Your First Generation Camaro Information Here

Since I have never done an article on first generation camaro engine specs, I’ll cover what the specs are on the SS Camaro; Z/28 Camaro; RS Camaro; RS/SS Camaro; Yenko Camaro; ZL1 Camaro; Baldwin Motion Camaro, and last but not least the Berger Camaro.

This is something that I have never seen done in an article, who knows maybe I’ll be the first one to attempt such an undertaking, there is a lot of information to cover here, so I’ll dive in head first, first off we’ll tackle the SS Camaro, and we’ll run it down by year.

In 1967 the SS Camaro had a few different engine options that were available, and we’ll cover those options, and the rear end gearing options that were available with those engine options, first and most common was the RPO L48 350 V8 with 295 HP, at a cost of $211.00.

The gearing options that were available we’re available for pretty much every engine option, and they were as follows, 2.73:1, 3.07:1, 3.31:1, 3.55:1, 3.73:1, 4.10:1, and 4.56:1, although the most common gear set used was the 3.71:1, and it was a good all around gear set, not to low, or to high.

The SS 350 tested at 0-60 MPH in 7.8 seconds according to Car and Driver magazine, with a 16.1 second 1/4 mile trap time, while Motor Trend tested the SS 350 at an 8 second 0-60, with e 15.4 second 1/4 mile elapsed time.

On November, 26 of 1966 Chevrolet released two new big block engine options, the first was the RPO L34 396 CID priced at $225.00 with the SS package it produced 325 HP, with the RPO L78 396 CID, priced at $550 including the SS package produced 375 HP.

Motor Trend tested an L35 version of the SS 396, with a four speed gear box at 6 seconds from 0-60, and a 14.5 1/4 mile elapsed time at 95 MPH, while Car Life magazine tested a similar version with a powerglide automatic transmission, and got a 6.8 0-60 time, with a 15.1 second 1/4 mile time.

Then of course we had the COPO L72 427 powered camaros, which were the king of the mountain, un till dealers like Yenko Chevrolet got to them, the L72 Camaro was capable of a 13.5 second 1/4 mile time from the factory, which was impressive.

The L72 engine had begun it’s life in the Corvette, and then was transplanted into the camaro, when the specialty dealers got their hands on the car, they were able to push the L72 Camaro down to a 12.7 1/4 mile elapsed time, and it was an awesome feat for that time.

Then came the Z/28 camaro in 1967, which only a modest 609 were ever built, the Z/28 had another purpose though, it was meant to race on the SCCA circuit, which meant that the engine size could not exceed 305 cubic inches.

Enter the 302 cubic inch Z/28 engine, this engine was never used in any other car form the factory, it was a designated engine for the Z/28 camaro, it was rated at 290 HP, but actually closer to 420 HP, it dominated the SCCA road race circuit.

The 1967 Z/28 camaro had a 0-60 time in the range of 6.7 seconds, and a 1/4 mile time of 14.9 seconds at 67 MPH, it claimed a top speed of 124 MPH, impressive numbers for the third from the smallest V8 that Chevrolet ever built.
The gear sets we’re the same as above, and you had a choice of a standard transmission, or an automatic, the Z/28 camaro was more about handling then 1/4 mile times, pulling a .96 G rating on the skid pad, most cars today don’t do better then that.

There was also an SS/RS version of the 1967 camaro, which basically took an SS camaro, and added the hideaway headlights from the RS model, not a huge upgrade, but a really cool one, it just made the camaro look more intimidating then it already did.

Now let’s move on to the year 1968, there were a few changes in that year, one of the most notable changes was the appearance of the car, Chevrolet decided to add some graphics known as hockey stripes, because the looked like hockey sticks on each side of the car.

The hockey stripes also wrapped up over the nose of the car, and were only available on the SS models of the camaro, they were obviously designed to catch the eye of the buyer of the car, and make it look faster to the eye, and it did both things.

In 1968 the SS camaro came with two engine options from the factory, and they were either a 350 CID engine in a few different configurations, or a 396 big block is a few different configurations, either way the 1968 camaro meant business.

There were obviously the dealers that did the custom engine packager, under he COPO, or central office production order, these dealers shoehorned in a 427 big block, which turned out to be the king of the hill during this year also.

Those dealers were Yenko Chevrolet, Berger Chevrolet, Baldwin Chevrolet, and a few others, these dealers made the camaro do things that it still hasn’t repeated to this day, those cars were true street warriors, cars that we’ll never see again.

For this article I will talk about the 1968 Yenko camaro COPO 9561, which in my opinion was the best idea out of all of them, Yenko installed a 427 CID V8 engine, Don Yenko visited Chevrolet to ask them to install a factory 427 under the COPO idea since his mechanics couldn’t keep up with the orders.

The sYc, or Super Yenko Camaro came with a factory 140 MPH speedometer installed, they also had the Z/28 suspension installed in them, making them a bit more nimble then the average big block camaro, not to mention the extra HP they had.

The engine was rated at 425 HP, but closer to 600 HP, the Yenko camaro do snot have it’s heyday until 1969, when it broke a huge number of track records, and continued to do so a through the 1969 year, but would have it’s best year in 1969.

We of course had the Z/28 camaro in 1968 also, and it’s claim to fame remained the same, dominating the SCCA road race tracks, the one big change for the Z/28 in 1968 was the addition of a four bolt main engine block in late 1968.

There was also an option available on the 1967, 68, and 69 camaro known as the cross-ram manifold, this added an extra four barrel carburettor to the mix, and set them under the hood, and across from each other, which added some mid range, and high end power.

These were two 590 CFM Holley four barrel bubble pumper carburettors, and this is a very rare option that makes the cars that have them worth in the $100,000 range, it’s very rare, and extremely hard to fain on a car.

The SS 396 camaro boasted the same power numbers as the previous year did, with the addition of the L89 option which added aluminium heads to the 375 HP 396 engine, which didn’t add any HP, but the car dropped about 75 pounds in weight.

In 1969 the COPO would add a special camaro, known only as the ZL1, this engine was rated at 425 HP, but was an all aluminium engine, therefore making it weigh about the same as a small block engine, giving it a huge advantage, this car was known as the COPO 9560 camaro.

In 1969 Fred Gibb Chevrolet would order a 1969 ZL1 camaro to race, and promote his dealership, he would recruit tricky Dick Harrell to drive the car, who would make it do things that no other car would ever do again in factory clothing.

Dick Harrell would push the car to regular 10.40 second 1/4 mile time, and would set a track record of 10.06 at 139 MPH in his ZL1 camaro, making this one of the quickest factory cars ever built, it mad the race team of Fred Gibb, and Dick Harrell one of the most famous of all times.

A step below the Zl1 camaro would come the Super Yenko Camaro, which could hold it’s own with almost any car, the sYc, or Super Yenko Camaro, cam with a factory installed COPO 9561 option, which was an L72 427 CID rated at 425 HP.

Available with only 4.10:1 gear sets in the rear end, it was a bit less setreet friendly, but it was manageable on the street, you also had the option of an automatic, or a standard transmission, depending on how you ordered the car.

The available transmissions were M21, or M22 four speed gearboxes, or the turbohydromatic automatic transmission, depending on your order, because this was a step below the ZL1 camaro, you should not think any less of it.

The engines were exactly the same, except that the ZL1 was an all aluminium engine, and the L72 was a cast iron engine, the major difference was the weight of the engines, neither of them were wimpy engines, they were both heart attack makers.

In 1969 the body of the camaro was re-designed, which made it the best selling camaro of all times, Chevrolet needed an idea to make them sell more, and they had the right idea with the 1969 re-design of the camaro body.

The sYc camaro was clocked at 11.45 in the 1/4 mile, which meant that it could stand with any car on the strip at that time, minus the ZL1 camaro, but the Yenko camaro was a wonderful car, that likes of which were never built again.

First Years Specifications – Learn About The Chevrolet Muscle Car That Could, This Was A Special Car, A Car Like No Other

Technorati Tags: SS Camaro, Z/28 Camaro, RS Camaro, RS/SS Camaro, Yenko Camaro, ZL1 Camaro

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Obviously you’ll need to keep your list that you created during the inspection of the car handy, because you will be adding more parts to it, it will probably grow at a quick rate, depending on what condition that camaro is in.

First we need to be sure that you have the tools that you’ll need to preform the tear down of the front sheet metal on the camaro, below I will add a short list of just the essential tools, nothing fancy, or specialized it’s all just simple hand tools.

List Of Tools:
1.Full Set Of End Wrenches
2.A 3/8 Drive ratchet & Full Set Of American Standard Sockets
3.Floor Jack
4.Full Set Of Screw Drivers
5.Pliers & Vicegrips
6.An Electric Drill With A Full Set Of Bits

This should be a good enough tool list to get you through the removing of the front sheet metal on your first generation camaro, it really is a pretty basic step in the restoration process, but the better you do this step, the better your car will look in the end.

First of all we’re going to remove the hood from the camaro, this is vary easy to do, at the back of the hood on each side are two bolts that hold the hood to the hinges, we’ll be removing those bolts, starting first with the one at the front on each side.

These should be either ½ or 9/16 inch bolt heads, it’s been a while so I don’t remember which for sure, now that you have removed the front bolt on each side, be sure that you have a friend there to help with this, and remove the two back bolt on each side, and the hood will slide right off.

The next thing we’ll do is remove the hinges that held the hood on thee car, these are held in by two bolts that go through the side of the hinge at the bottom, they usually have 9/16 bolt heads on them, you need to determine if you need to replace them now.

We’ll move on to the front bumper next, the bumpers are usually bolted to the frame rails in the center of the car, I usually unbolt them from the frame rail rather then the bumper, they’ll have a bolt at each end of the bumper also, and this is up to you on the way you unbolt it.

Next we’ll remove the grille, and please don’t get in a hurry here it’s easy to break a perfectly good grille, the grille is held in place with Philips screws, make sure that you remove the head lights first, I get a head of myself sometimes.

Once you have removed the head lights, and all the little Philips crews from the grille, it should just pull right out with ease, if it seems to be stuck, it usually means that you have missed a screw somewhere along the way, take a second look at it.

In my next article I will discuss the removal of the header panel, and the valence panel, from there we’ll move on to the radiator support, then the front fenders, and the rest of the front sheet metal on the car, after I get done you should be able to do this tear down.

Technorati Tags: 1969 Camaro Restoration, 1969 camaro information, camaro restoration, car restoration, custom auto paint, custom car builder

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Camaro Front Suspension & Steering

For this article I will focus on the front suspension and steering on the camaro, Chevrolet used this type of independent front suspension on a lot of their cars, so this could apply to almost any of Chevrolet’s of their muscle cars from the 1960′s or the 1970′s.

First of all Chevrolet used a wishbone design front suspension with an upper, and a lower control arm, and they used this design with great success for a lot of years, it was setup using a coil spring positioned between the lower control arm and would fit in to a seat in the sub frame rail.

The shock absorber would pass the middle of the coil springs, this suspension setup is the same for the first, and second generation of the camaro with one difference, and that is the steering linkage, the recirculating ball steering gear, and the parallelogram type linkage.

These consist of a pitman arm, and an idler arm, center link, tie rods, integral steering knuckles, and wheel spindles on the first pension and cross member, due to handling issues with the first generation, the steering linkage was moved to the front of the cross member in the second generation cars.

When your restoring the front suspension of your camaro you need to inspect the pitman arm, and an idler arm, center link, tie rods, integral steering knuckles, and wheel spindles, as a matter of fact I would just replace all of it for safety reasons, you might as well do the job right.

I would inspect the upper and lower control arms for rust, and for the holes where the bushings go to be oval-ed out when the last owner didn’t replace the bushing when they needed to be replaced, or maybe they didn’t lube the car regularly.

If the upper and lower control arms show any ware at ll I would replace them for your safety, there are some things that you just don’t try to save money on, you should also have the coil springs load tested to see if they are reliable enough to put back in the car again.

When I restore a car I usually just replace the entire front suspension and steering to be 100% sure that the driver won’t have safety issues with the car, this isn’t just for aesthetics, it can hurt you very badly if it’s not done the right way, so take you time, and do it right the first time.

Also one other part of the steering that I don’t think that i mentioned here is the steering box, this would attach to the sub frame of the car, and the pitman arm would attach to it, you need to look closely at this also, if it has a lot of play in it, or it’s hard to move the steering, you should replace it.

My biggest concern when I restore is that I make sure that it will be a safe reliable mode of transportation, something that the people who drive it can depend on, or if it’s just a show mobile, a car that can take a prize at the show.

Technorati Tags: Camaro Front Suspension Restoraiton, steering, mechanical repair

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When you think of restoration, you think of an all factory stock car, you don’t think of custom engines and pint work, but restoration is basically custom body and mechanical work on your car, and most restoration shops are glad to do hot rod work on your car.

The 1969 camaro has long been a platform for custom car builders, they have done things that you can’t imagine with them, but before you get in to chopping and channeling your 1969 camaro you might want to think about a couple of things.

First of all, when you customize your car your making it what you want it to be, not what somebody that you may want to sell it to is looking for, you don’t want to do huge custom work unless you plan to never sell the car, you’ll never get out of the car, what you put in to it.

I love custom cars as much as the next guy, but the plain and simple fact of the matter remains, that they are worth less if you customize them, so if you think that you may sell it at some point in time, keep the custom work to a minimum.

Always in every cast you should keep the parts that you take off of your car, so when you sell it some day, you can tell the buyer that you have all of the original parts that cam off of the car, this will make a huge difference to the person buying the car.

I’m all about the custom work if you plan to keep the car, and hand it down to the kids at some point, make your 1969 camaro exactly what you’ve envisioned it to be, chop it; channel it; flame it, and stick that supercharged engine through the hood.

The main part of any car, is that you have fun with it, and the best way to do that is to make it your car by doing all the fine details, by customizing it your way, and getting exactly what you want, it’s a beautiful thing to pull you car out on the road for the first time after the work is done.

So I say do everything that you want to do to the car, but make sure that it can be returned to it’s most basic factory stock form, if your concerned about the value of the car, but by all means, go out and get your 1969 camaro, and have fun with it.

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Hints and Tips on Finding a 1969 Camaro For Sale
By Collin A Bass

The first generation of the Camaro ended with the 1969 Camaro. The Z28 model was available this year. These cars are very collectible, and so, it is increasingly difficult to find a good 1969 Camaro at a good price. It helps to do your research, especially with such an investment. These cars are not that cheap anymore. Finding a good 1969 Camaro can take some time, but if you use the right tools, you will get a better deal and more selection. I will give you a brief history, but you should do your own research before buying your first 1969 Camaro

The Famous COPO

Fred Gibb designed and persuaded GM to produce the COPO in 1968 There were only 50 of these COPO engines produced (Central Office Production Order)In the US there were only 19 of these cars actually produced with the COPO engine.

The Camaro Gets Better

In 1969, the largest engine GM would offer was the 6.6L. The 1969 Camaro was a much safer car. In some 1969 Camaro you could find the 7 Liter engine. These were installed by the dealer. GM added a COPO with the numbers 9560,9561 each time a dealer sold one of these cars There was only 1,1015 made with these numbers. The 7 L Zl-1 was included in the 9560 COPO option. There was only 69 of this version made. This is the rarest Camaro ever made

Differences in the years – The 1969 Camaro had the front lights moved farther back, and a new grille was added, other than that the ’69 stayed pretty much the same.1969 was the last of the 1st generation. The last time a 1969 Camaro rolled off the assembly line was in Dec of this year. One other change was the rear valence, which gave the car a more aggressive stance.

Good luck with your search for a 1969 Camaro, I hope this article helps, there is still much more to learn! You can find out much more with just a little research, there are also some good Videos about classic muscle cars for sale including Camaros.

Learn the rest of the history of the 69 Camaro as well as view listings of Camaros online. Find your 1969 Camaro this year!!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Collin_A_Bass
http://EzineArticles.com/?Hints-and-Tips-on-Finding-a-1969-Camaro-For-Sale&id=2126055

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Cylinder Head Identification

If you have a standard 1969 camaro you should not have a lot of problem finding the parts and supplies that you need to restore the car, but if you have a special 1969 camaro you’ll probably run in to a few problems locating some of the parts.

Allow me to differentiate between a special 1969 camaro, and a standard 1969 camaro, a standard 1969 camaro would be a Z/28, SS, RS, RS/SS, RS-Z/28, a special camaro would be a Yenko Camaro, a Baldwin Motion Camaro, or a ZL1 Camaro.

These are camaros that a very limited number of them was built, making it hard to find some of the parts, so if your restoring one of these you’ll need to add a lot of patience to the restoration plan of your car because if will take a while to locate some of the parts.

For this article we’ll assume that you have already bought your car, and now it’s time to start the restoration process on the car, first of all get the car in to the garage, and plan on it being there for a while, this is not an over night process.

Planning a restoration on your 1969 camaro is no different from planning one on any other car, the first thing you need to do is take an inventory of the car so you can list the tings that need to be done to restore the car.

I have a method for doing an inventory of a car for restoration purposes, first get out your notebook, and divide one of the pages in to three columns, name one of them replace parts, name one repair parts, and name one repair work.

What your going to do with this notebook is a walk around inventory of the car, you’ll bee looking for parts that need to be replaced, parts that you can repair and reuse, and getting a general feel for the repair work that needs to be done on the car it’s self.

The reason we do this is to get an idea of some of the things that we need to do to restore the car, I realize that you can’t get a complete list of the things that you need until you tear in to the car, but this will give you a good idea of where to start.

You can take your list of replace parts and start to run down suppliers for them, and the cost of them, make sure that you inspect inspect the entire car when you do the walk around, I usually work from the front to the rear of the car when I do this.

Then after I get everything that I can see, I lift the car off of the ground and inspect all of the systems under the car, like suspension, brakes, steering, rear end, and sheet metal, once I have the inventory completed I can get on to the tear down.

This inventory can help you in a lot of ways, the first and most obvious is the fact that it will help you get a feel for the pricing of the parts that you’ll need, if your good at estimating how long it will take you to repair and replace things, it will give you a good idea of how many hours it will take.

Take your time on this parts of the restoration, the more through this is the better it will be, you’ll get a really good idea of the parts you need, and the cost of them, you’ll get a good idea of the time it will take to do the restoration of the car.
If you know these things up front, you won’t get a lot of surprises as you do the work and you’ll enjoy every hour that you spend working on your car, keep this in mind as you do your inventory, in most cases if the car is in good condition, it takes professional shop about 600-800 hours to restore a car.

That of course changes when you add more work, but it will give you an idea of the time that these cars can take to restore, it takes a long time to complete one of these projects, the the reward is well worth the time that you’ll spend restoring the car.

Resource: 1969 Camaro Restoration

Technorati Tags: camaro, chevrolet, 1967-69 camaro restoration

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You know that there are a lot of tags, and numbers to decode on a classic camaro, I’m going to help with a few of them in this article, we’ll talk about RPO codes, vin tags, and a few other numbers that you need to know about on your car.

First we’ll start with the RPO code, this can be found on a machined pad just just in front of the passenger side head, the RPO code contains a lot of useful information about the engine in your car, like the date it was built, horsepower, and a few other things.

Below you’ll find a chart of RPO suffix codes for you to use

Below I’ll explain how to decode your camaro vin tag

When you look at you vin tag the first number represents the manufacture id, in this case it would be the number 1, any time you see a vin tag on a GM car that starts wit the number 1 it means that the car was made by Chevrolet.

So to begin with let’s say that the vin tag on your car reads 124379N109845 in this number the second position indicates the car model, and engine, in this case it’s a number 24 or a V8 car, as we move on through the number we get to position 3, which is represented by two digits or the number 37 which indicates that it’s a sports coupe.

Moving on through the vin code we get to position 4 which indicates that the car was built in 1969, as we move on to position 5 we have an N which indicates that the car was built in Norwood Ohio, the last 6 numbers are the line number of the car, or this war the 109845 TH car built in 1969.

As you see it’s really pretty simple, I’ll run through the positions one more time below, and then I’ll add the list of assembly plants so you’ll know them.

Number Positions

1.The number 1 is the manufacture id number, 1 is Chevrolet
2.In position 2 is the number 24 this indicates that the car is a V8 Camaro
3.In position 3 is the number 37 this indicates the the car is a sports coupe
4.In position 4 is the year in this case a 9 indicating that it’s a 1969 model year
5.In position 5 is the assembly plant, in this case “N” indicates Norwood Ohio
6.The last six digits indicate the production number, this was the 109845 TH car built in 1969

List Of Assembly Plants

N or NOR = Norwood Ohio (cars from Norwood came with the famous X code numbers)

LOS – Van Nuys (Los Angeles) California (until mid December on 1968)

VN – Van Nuys (Los Angeles) California (from mid December 1968 on)

Technorati Tags: 1969 camaro vin tags, rpo codes, protecto plate

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To get the deal above all you have to do is right click the image above, and click save as, and then print out a copy ot the image above and present it to Clay Lyon ay Gus Paulos Chevrolet.

Our site only you can get this great deal on a brand new Chevrolet, just think a new car rather then another used one, you’ll always remember the first new car you bought, and this time you can help your country by buying and American car rather then an import.

American builds great cars, and it’s time that we all take the to heart, our web site is the only place on the net that you can get this deal is our web site contact Dave and ask about the buy American promotion with Atkin Internet Enterprises and Gus Paulos Chevrolet today!!!

Or contact Clay Lyon at Gus Paulos Chevrolet, and tell him that you seen this promotion on 69isfine.com, are you ready for your 2010 camaro, this is you opportunity to get just the camaro you want at a great price, it’s time to think American and help your country survive the hard times.

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Purchase any eligible new 2008, 2009 or 2010 Chevrolet, Buick, Pontiac, GMC or Saturn vehicle from a participating GM dealer in the United States through June 1, 2009. Saab, Hummer and Cadillac vehicles, medium duty and heavy duty trucks are excluded.

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Once you know how far the rust extends, you can make an educated guess about rather you can patch the panel, or if you need to replace the entire panel, the biggest mistake that people make fixing rust is not getting all the rust out of the rusted area.

It makes no sense to r\patch a panel and leave some of the rust, rust is just like cancer in people, if you leave some it won’t be long before you have a hole in your pride and joy again, if you love your car, do yourself a favour, and don’t short cut the repair.

Just because you see a little rust bubble on the surface of the car does not mean that the rust is in only that area on the panel, you need to look behind the panel, even if you have to cut out some other metal to see the area where the rust is.

If the rust in in a place like the wheel openings of the car, which is a normal place for most cars to rust, you’d be better off to assume that you need to replace the quarter panels then to replace a piece at a time until there is no more rust.

Piecing panels together to fix rust can cause it’s own problems, and if you think the rust is hard to fix, wait until you warp a panel and have to fix that, spend the extra money and do the job right, there is no room for short cuts here.

If your like most people who restore a car, you want a nice straight car when it’s all dine, one of the hardest things to make look straight is a warped body panel, my opinion is that it’s always better to replace a panel then to patch it.

Replacement panels for most cars are not horribly expensive, you’d be better off to save a little cash if you need to and replace the entire panel, although sometimes patching is necessary because you can’t buy the parts that you need, in this case just make sure that you get all of the rust.

Auto body rust is incidentally resilient and it will always return if you miss some, take a lot of time and find every last ounce of the rust, after you have the patch in the car coat the back of it with a rust protecting product like POR15.

If you take care to make sure that it’s done right you should not have a single problem with patching a small area in the body of your car, rust is the single worst destroyer of car bodies, and once it starts it’s hard to stop it.

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With no proof they run their mouth, with no proof they spout anti American rhetoric, and they try to convince everybody else to do the same, well I for one have never bought in to the anti American crap that these people spew, I have owned both import, and American.

A few years back somebody began to spout the propaganda about the imports building a higher quality car, with no proof these people won over most of America, and for this I blame the people, for not looking in to it before they buy a car, they just take somebodies word for it.

They run right down to the import car dealer and make an immediate purchase, they don’t even bother to give the American car companies a chance, they talk about things like machining process, and body & paint processes, but they don’t really know a thing about it.

After owning Toyotas, and Volks Wagons I know that they do not last longer, and most certainly are not as comfortable, I have worked in shops for years, and have repaired just as many imports as I have American cars, and they usually cost a lot more to fix.

I’ve heard it all over the years, Toyota builds a maintenance free car, I have news nobody builds a maintenance free car, if it has mechanical parts, such as an engine it needs maintenance on a regular basis, and if you maintain you car it will last a long time.

There are some truths to the whole import car idea, the truth that if somebody spends $80,000 on a new Mercedes Benz, they will be much more likely to maintain it correctly, then the person who spent $30,00 on a brand new Chevrolet.

This is where the import lovers are getting the idea that imports have higher quality then American car do, right now nobody builds a car with higher gas mileage then Chevrolet does, this is a fact, no import company does it, and no American company does it.

You need to look at all of the facts before you go out and buy a new car if you do I’m sure that you’ll discover that America does it just as well, if not better then most of the import car companies do, and the fact of the matter is that America need your help.

So you can lift you nose, and flip your chin that the American car manufactures, but it only makes you look like the dumb one, you can talk them down and say how much better you BMW is, but the fact of the matter is, you don’t know anything about it.

Don’t go and buy an import because the people next door bought one, go out and show that your an American by supporting your country and buying an American car, don’t think that you look smart because you just bought a Toyota, you don’t.

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